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| post_id ▼ | thread_id | thread_title | post_number | author_username | post_date | post_date_iso | post_body |
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| 288883 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 1 | Warchild | Aug 5, 2023 | 2023-08-05T19:53:58-0400 | New to this forum so I thought i would kick things off with a bit of a chat about ability, board choices, and celebrating where you are at in your surfing life. Been surfing for 40 years now (6.5 230lb), had all kinds of boards, and have done the whole 80s thruster to 90s blade to big guy tri, to ride everything combo of bonzers, singles fins, logs, fish and so on. This is where I have landed: No one cares what board you are riding when you catch a nice wave. No one, not ever. Pull in at Desert Point on a surftech Stewart Hydro Hull with a go pro mount and get absolutely barrelled. Who cares what board you have. But that wave you got - that is something people get excited about. So applying this to my own intermediate ability, I've learnt that bespoke bonzers, single fins and whatever else felt groovy and made me think I was super in touch with board culture, but that Stewart Hydro Hull would probably work better in most conditions, as would most contemporary board designs, for an older surfer. The goal is ultimatley the wave, so my board choices need to reflect that objective, and often they haven't. Board and fin dimensions are important in relation to your weight, height, ability and what kinds of waves you surf and boards you ride. But there is a very rapid law of diminishing returns. When you start debating 2 litres of volume, or whether to go 7.8 versus 7.6, whether a greenough 4 A will work better than a flying diamonds yada yada, that may well be valid in terms of what you are feeling from your boards. But get someone to film you surfing and you soon discover you look exactly the same on whatever genre of board you are riding (unless you actually rip, and some here will!). So much as I love my artisan logs and banging on about the merit of flex patterns in volan fins, the truth is that two plus one longboard I sold a while back was just as good as everything I own now. Time to take a step back the next time I start thinking I need board x or board y. I really don't. Anyway, th… |
| 288886 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 2 | Ricksurfin | Aug 6, 2023 | 2023-08-05T20:26:57-0400 | Amen, you’re preaching the gospel. And I primarily surf a spot where there are a lot of surfers that truly rip, makes me realize how bad I suck. But, I truly believe it’s more about smiles then what you can or can’t do, and with that in mind, I rip. |
| 288887 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 3 | SeniorGrom | Aug 6, 2023 | 2023-08-05T20:30:33-0400 | Welcome Warchild. I like your perspective and the thread in general. At 73 I hope to stay stoked and have realistic expectations. Ricksurfin reminds me…….if my turn or combinations feel like Devon Howard looks then I’m getting what I seek. |
| 288889 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 4 | halfalpine | Aug 6, 2023 | 2023-08-05T20:49:29-0400 | BACK OFF, WARCHILD Just kidding, that was a really insightful post. It was very relatable--my daily driver is a 7'2" in good waves, a 7'10" in junk, and I just listed another shortboard on Craigslist today. (I do occaisionally shortboard when the planets are aligned.) Reminds me of rock climbing, where lots of climbers say "grades don't matter" but also everyone is obviously obsessed with grades. Here in surfland, we are all aware of the boards that are "desirable" and some amount of that desire gets internalized. I'm not satisfied logging it every day, but I don't (ok, can't) ride whatever the latest thing-a-ma-jig that's trending right now. This is the beauty of "alt" shapes to me. Not to just see performance as "up" or "down", but also "sideways". Anyways, hope that Hydro Hull is working out for you. Actually, hope you get really shacked on it! Thanks for sharing. |
| 288891 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 5 | Ricksurfin | Aug 6, 2023 | 2023-08-05T21:02:07-0400 | Owning a beautiful custom board does fuel the ego though……. Makes me smile inside and out. |
| 288894 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 6 | paipodude | Aug 6, 2023 | 2023-08-05T22:04:19-0400 | A good surfrider can ride any board very well anywhere. Then there is the rest of us! We need help. Ironically, certain small design differents in a board can make a big difference for us average folks so good reason to have a few boards to match different waves and sizes. Likewise, a talented rider can forever exploit those incremental design changes in ways I will never go. Nonetheless, there is nothing like a good surf. |
| 288896 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 7 | Ricksurfin | Aug 6, 2023 | 2023-08-05T22:40:07-0400 | True, but don’t let your ego drive your board selection. Honestly know where you stand skill wise and use common sense to choose what to ride. As I got older, surfed less, and had some serious physical limitations, I still tried to surf what I used to and suffered from it. Once I accepted reality and hopped on longer boards with more foam my enjoyment level increased proportionally. |
| 288899 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 8 | andrew- | Aug 6, 2023 | 2023-08-05T23:55:50-0400 | I’ve sold a handful of boards over the past few months I realized we’re “ego boards”…I loved the shapes and histories and theories and foils of them all, but have accepted that even when the right conditions present themselves I’d rather be on another type of board (or shaper’s board - Marc’s obv ). That said I’m still searching and trying new shit, not because I think it’ll make me rip harder but because new experiences and interactions on waves can be unlocked. Nothing is for the benefit of the onlooker, it’s all a personal pursuit. |
| 288902 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 9 | Outside | Aug 6, 2023 | 2023-08-06T00:23:19-0400 | Few moments have been as tragic and disheartening as seeing a video of a ride on a nice lined up wave and realizing that it sure felt a lot better than it looked. It has helped with fin selection though when noticing how much body english it was taking to change trajectory. |
| 288908 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 10 | Warchild | Aug 6, 2023 | 2023-08-06T01:18:49-0400 | SeniorGrom said: Welcome Warchild. I like your perspective and the thread in general. At 73 I hope to stay stoked and have realistic expectations. Ricksurfin reminds me…….if my turn or combinations feel like Devon Howard looks then I'm getting what I seek. Click to expand... Oh I hear you on the Devon Howard and nice job on living your surfing life at 73! Thats good news for all of us not there yet but who hope to be in the future. Goals! |
| 288909 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 11 | Warchild | Aug 6, 2023 | 2023-08-06T01:20:41-0400 | Ricksurfin said: Amen, you're preaching the gospel. And I primarily surf a spot where there are a lot of surfers that truly rip, makes me realize how bad I suck. But, I truly believe it's more about smiles then what you can or can't do, and with that in mind, I rip. Click to expand... And there's joy in watching others rip as well as joy in watching others learn, so yeah the smiles are the true currency of surfing. |
| 288910 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 12 | Warchild | Aug 6, 2023 | 2023-08-06T01:24:30-0400 | andrew- said: I've sold a handful of boards over the past few months I realized we're "ego boards"…I loved the shapes and histories and theories and foils of them all, but have accepted that even when the right conditions present themselves I'd rather be on another type of board (or shaper's board - Marc's obv ). That said I'm still searching and trying new shit, not because I think it'll make me rip harder but because new experiences and interactions on waves can be unlocked. Nothing is for the benefit of the onlooker, it's all a personal pursuit. Click to expand... True. Bonzers were my biggest rabbit hole 'ego' purchase, and if I could try an Andrelini God knows I probably would. You see an outline, next minute your falling in love and pulling the trigger! |
| 288911 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 13 | Warchild | Aug 6, 2023 | 2023-08-06T01:31:54-0400 | Outside said: Few moments have been as tragic and disheartening as seeing a video of a ride on a nice lined up wave and realizing that it sure felt a lot better than it looked. It has helped with fin selection though when noticing how much body english it was taking to change trajectory. Click to expand... And when your partner has taken that video while looking onward in dispare its ultra painful. |
| 289014 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 14 | Chilly Willy | Aug 7, 2023 | 2023-08-07T14:29:58-0400 | Ha! Welcome to the forum, Warchild. All very valid points, both amusing and humbling to read. I think for mere mortals, whether or not you rip is not a constant but an everchanging status. This was confirmed to me yesterday when I got a text from a buddy about his own surfing that made me laugh: "I kinda stink now". Even still, there's probably also someone watching on the beach who sees him surf and thinks he rips. For me, all that other stuff -- boards, fins, equipment changes, videos (I'm one of those guys that enjoys getting footage of myself and watching it back later) -- is really just part of the fun. Nerding out on that stuff lets me extend my enjoyment of surfing beyond the beach. |
| 289016 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 15 | fluidworks | Aug 7, 2023 | 2023-08-07T14:53:57-0400 | Great thread. Surfing without ego is the path to surfing enlightenment. |
| 289035 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 16 | heavymetalshop | Aug 7, 2023 | 2023-08-07T17:35:54-0400 | Ricksurfin said: Amen, you're preaching the gospel. And I primarily surf a spot where there are a lot of surfers that truly rip, makes me realize how bad I suck. But, I truly believe it's more about smiles then what you can or can't do, and with that in mind, I rip. Click to expand... rad |
| 289063 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 17 | Warchild | Aug 8, 2023 | 2023-08-08T02:27:31-0400 | Chilly Willy said: Ha! Welcome to the forum, Warchild. All very valid points, both amusing and humbling to read. I think for mere mortals, whether or not you rip is not a constant but an everchanging status. This was confirmed to me yesterday when I got a text from a buddy about his own surfing that made me laugh: "I kinda stink now". Even still, there's probably also someone watching on the beach who sees him surf and thinks he rips. For me, all that other stuff -- boards, fins, equipment changes, videos (I'm one of those guys that enjoys getting footage of myself and watching it back later) -- is really just part of the fun. Nerding out on that stuff lets me extend my enjoyment of surfing beyond the bea Click to expand... I think nerding out is pretty cool when it comes to surfing, especially heavy nerding about its history and where fins, templates and everything else we are using today have come from. Surf nerds, so hot right now. |
| 289066 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 18 | surf1ng | Aug 8, 2023 | 2023-08-08T05:35:30-0400 | Warchild said: Surf nerds, so hot right now Click to expand... Great thread. Love a Zoolander reference. |
| 289068 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 19 | Old Dude | Aug 8, 2023 | 2023-08-08T06:18:29-0400 | The bitter truth is, I never ripped and I never will rip, but… … I started surfing at age of 40. I surf only on vacation. In a very good year I go surfing for 4-5 weeks, thereoff 3 weeks in summer, with a zero wave potential of 3-5 days and sometimes knee-high for rest of it. And now I’m turning 60, sit outside (up to chest or head high) in the middle of the pack, get some waves, I’m definitely not the best in the line-up, but not the worst too, I’m accepted by all as a decent surfer, especially by the intermediate ladies and even by some locals, and after each surf my smile goes from the left to the right ear |
| 289079 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 20 | NJ Longboarder | Aug 8, 2023 | 2023-08-08T10:07:04-0400 | I rip!! Just every time someone takes a photo of me they are a terrible photographer. They must need a better camera and/or lens. Not my fault. I'm good enough to have fun out there. Not good enough for anyone to watch but not kooky enough to get made fun of on the regular. I blend in well at a mediocre lineup. good enough for me. |
| 289290 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 21 | Spiral Bee | Aug 10, 2023 | 2023-08-10T12:30:26-0400 | Warchild said: I think nerding out is pretty cool when it comes to surfing, especially heavy nerding about its history and where fins, templates and everything else we are using today have come from. Surf nerds, so hot right now. Click to expand... I have to admit I'm always taken aback by how little the new wave of "adult learners" knows about even rudimentary aspects of surf history and culture. I'm willing to give them a pass if they take off on the shoulder without even a glance back to the peak (where I'm already off and running), but I get annoyed if they don't know who Tom Curren is, or Backdoor, or a "gun", a "channel" or etc. I almost feel like every Wavestorm should be sold in a package along with a subscription to Warshaw's Encyclopedia, or at least a little pamphlet or something. |
| 289295 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 22 | paipodude | Aug 10, 2023 | 2023-08-10T12:41:05-0400 | I am of the mind the newbies need to learn a lot more about the rules of etiquette then they can indulge in history and culture. Of course, surf culture is a very nebulous term. |
| 289309 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 23 | Spiral Bee | Aug 10, 2023 | 2023-08-10T13:51:53-0400 | paipodude said: I am of the mind the newbies need to learn a lot more about the rules of etiquette then they can indulge in history and culture. Of course, surf culture is a very nebulous term. Click to expand... Of course you're correct. I just have that irrational (and unfair tbh) peeve. |
| 289494 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 24 | Warchild | Aug 12, 2023 | 2023-08-12T00:19:35-0400 | Old Dude said: The bitter truth is, I never ripped and I never will rip, but… … I started surfing at age of 40. I surf only on vacation. In a very good year I go surfing for 4-5 weeks, thereoff 3 weeks in summer, with a zero wave potential of 3-5 days and sometimes knee-high for rest of it. And now I'm turning 60, sit outside (up to chest or head high) in the middle of the pack, get some waves, I'm definitely not the best in the line-up, but not the worst too, I'm accepted by all as a decent surfer, especially by the intermediate ladies and even by some locals, and after each surf my smile goes from the left to the right ear Click to expand... 20 Years in - nice! Not easy to start at 40, and plenty of surfers who started 20 years before you haven't made it to 60. You got 30 plus years to go... |
| 289495 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 25 | Warchild | Aug 12, 2023 | 2023-08-12T00:33:21-0400 | paipodude said: I am of the mind the newbies need to learn a lot more about the rules of etiquette then they can indulge in history and culture. Of course, surf culture is a very nebulous term. Click to expand... Nice drop of 'nebulous' - such a good word. I hear ya on the etiquette, but I gotta say, the most septic interactions I've ever had in the water have been with seasoned bro's flexing hard about nothing. The newbies, whilst chaotic and at times dangerous, seem pretty happy, even if their Tom Blake knowledge is a bit shit. |
| 289512 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 26 | paipodude | Aug 12, 2023 | 2023-08-12T10:44:59-0400 | Warchild said: Nice drop of 'nebulous' - such a good word. I hear ya on the etiquette, but I gotta say, the most septic interactions I've ever had in the water have been with seasoned bro's flexing hard about nothing. The newbies, whilst chaotic and at times dangerous, seem pretty happy, even if their Tom Blake knowledge is a bit shit. Click to expand... My take is that the "seasoned bro's flexing hard about nothing" is that they neither know or respect surf etiquetter or "surf history" (which is a bit distinct from "surf culture"). For hoots, start a thread asking for a definition of "surf culture." The raging hysteria will eke... (or get stuck in the eke ). |
| 289534 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 27 | hardyw | Aug 12, 2023 | 2023-08-12T14:38:46-0400 | Another interesting aspect of this topic is that hidden in the jamboards matrix are some individuals who actually do rip… |
| 289544 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 28 | Chilly Willy | Aug 12, 2023 | 2023-08-12T17:33:11-0400 | Spiral Bee said: I almost feel like every Wavestorm should be sold in a package along with a subscription to Warshaw's Encyclopedia, or at least a little pamphlet or something. Click to expand... There was some kind of promotion at a local shop (Ocean Hut) in the 80s where they were giving away Quiksilver posters and other swag. I forget what pro was visiting or what the circumstances were. But I got a killer Eddie Aikau poster and a Quiksilver "surfer's black book". It was a neat little booklet with a calendar, lots of mouthwatering photos, an area for phone numbers (two lists, one for "Bros" and the other for "Bettys"), and -- getting to the point you mentioned -- a glossary of terms that every surfer should know. It was just a goofy little thing but I, as a frothing grom, definitely did study those terms in case there would ever be a quiz. |
| 289546 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 29 | Cuttlefish | Aug 12, 2023 | 2023-08-12T18:11:28-0400 | Warchild said: And when your partner has taken that video while looking onward in dispare its ultra painful. Click to expand... Video your partner wearing her favourite, most expensive shoes or handbag. Did it make her look like a famous celebrity or super model? It's all about how it makes one feel. For those who would like a non video apparatus to guage your surfing let me introduce you to the analogue version: The Hootometer! When you're riding a wave and the other surfers in the water are hooting you...or being deathly silent one can use this as a measure. |
| 289623 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 30 | Human | Aug 14, 2023 | 2023-08-13T23:18:50-0400 | My general rule of thumb as I age: Ride obscure boards --> Blame lack of ripping on board |
| 289671 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 31 | Moustache Lou | Aug 14, 2023 | 2023-08-14T15:02:53-0400 | Human said: My general rule of thumb as I age: Ride obscure boards --> Blame lack of ripping on board Click to expand... I've been doing that for a LONG time..... I think it's why I've always loved my Tudor Good Karma... More like a 'Tudor Good Scapegoat' |
| 289683 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 32 | Bruce Fowler | Aug 14, 2023 | 2023-08-14T16:03:55-0400 | Harley Q. aka Barbie, has been surfing since a young age. "Of course I surf, I'm an Aussie. How would I rate myself? On a scale of 1 to 10, I'm about a 2". |
| 289700 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 33 | West81 | Aug 14, 2023 | 2023-08-14T17:10:36-0400 | Human said: My general rule of thumb as I age: Ride obscure boards --> Blame lack of ripping on board Click to expand... I am convinced hulls were created with this in mind |
| 289741 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 34 | Spiral Bee | Aug 15, 2023 | 2023-08-14T22:47:43-0400 | Human said: My general rule of thumb as I age: Ride obscure boards --> Blame lack of ripping on board Click to expand... "You don't get it. This is a displacement hull. I may look a bit goofy out there, but I'm actually shredding." [ha! I hadn't read West81's reply] |
| 289746 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 35 | mightyrime | Aug 15, 2023 | 2023-08-14T23:32:19-0400 | This thread is really reflecting something i have been thinking a lot about lately, especially as i am approaching the age of 50. I want to rip, and i try to rip, and at times i really feel like i am ripping. For me ripping is a personal thing. Of course i have some ego as we all do, and we all crave acceptance and fan fare, but ultimately i am setting my personal standard for what ripping is for me. For me the definition of ripping is total control in almost any condition. Then i think what does this mean... start with a bell curve. As much as i like the surf super heroes like Torren Martyn, Ryan Burch, Mickey Feb...etc... that crew of super stars are beyond the rip so they get chopped from the top. And brand new beginners get taken out of the equation at the bottom. With whats left are the surfers i generally see day to day. I am lucky that i live in an area that once or twice a week i am sharing the lineup with a pro or highly ranked amateur, as well as some ex pros, and locals who truly rip. The waves are good here but not perfect everyday so it allows me to witness very high end surfing on less than spectacular waves. The surfers who really stand out to me are the ones who are consistent in all conditions. Their take offs, turns, style, usage of the wave they are given are always top notch, and in total control. You can even tell in the way they control their kick out if the wave is not working. Some of them are short boarders with heavy spray throwing turns, some midlength guys with flow, and some loggers and even some hi-pro longboard guys. The best totally control their chosen vessel. The best just totally own it on every wave. And the next part of the equation is age. With most of the real rippers i see daily i am going to say less than 10% of them look over 40 years old. So i focus on the over 40 crowd more to set my bar. Most of the over 40 crew who rips might not be the most explosive but they own it t… |
| 289749 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 36 | mightyrime | Aug 15, 2023 | 2023-08-14T23:40:59-0400 | mightyrime said: This thread is really reflecting something i have been thinking a lot about lately, especially as i am approaching the age of 50. I want to rip, and i try to rip, and at times i really feel like i am ripping. For me ripping is a personal thing. Of course i have some ego as we all do, and we all crave acceptance and fan fare, but ultimately i am setting my personal standard for what ripping is for me. For me the definition of ripping is total control in almost any condition. Then i think what does this mean... start with a bell curve. As much as i like the surf super heroes like Torren Martyn, Ryan Burch, Mickey Feb...etc... that crew of super stars are beyond the rip so they get chopped from the top. And brand new beginners get taken out of the equation at the bottom. With whats left are the surfers i generally see day to day. I am lucky that i live in an area that once or twice a week i am sharing the lineup with a pro or highly ranked amateur, as well as some ex pros, and locals who truly rip. The waves are good here but not perfect everyday so it allows me to witness very high end surfing on less than spectacular waves. The surfers who really stand out to me are the ones who are consistent in all conditions. Their take offs, turns, style, usage of the wave they are given are always top notch, and in total control. You can even tell in the way they control their kick out if the wave is not working. Some of them are short boarders with heavy spray throwing turns, some midlength guys with flow, and some loggers and even some hi-pro longboard guys. The best totally control their chosen vessel. The best just totally own it on every wave. And the next part of the equation is age. With most of the real rippers i see daily i am going to say less than 10% of them look over 40 years old. So i focus on the over 40 crowd more to set my bar. Most of the over 40 crew who rips might not b… |
| 289751 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 37 | Moustache Lou | Aug 15, 2023 | 2023-08-15T00:09:42-0400 | mightyrime said: i probably could have skipped the essay and just said " no i have not fully accepted it yet" Click to expand... Nah… it was a good essay. |
| 289756 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 38 | shadydave | Aug 15, 2023 | 2023-08-15T06:12:38-0400 | mightyrime said: This thread is really reflecting something i have been thinking a lot about lately, especially as i am approaching the age of 50. I want to rip, and i try to rip, and at times i really feel like i am ripping. For me ripping is a personal thing. Of course i have some ego as we all do, and we all crave acceptance and fan fare, but ultimately i am setting my personal standard for what ripping is for me. For me the definition of ripping is total control in almost any condition. Then i think what does this mean... start with a bell curve. As much as i like the surf super heroes like Torren Martyn, Ryan Burch, Mickey Feb...etc... that crew of super stars are beyond the rip so they get chopped from the top. And brand new beginners get taken out of the equation at the bottom. With whats left are the surfers i generally see day to day. I am lucky that i live in an area that once or twice a week i am sharing the lineup with a pro or highly ranked amateur, as well as some ex pros, and locals who truly rip. The waves are good here but not perfect everyday so it allows me to witness very high end surfing on less than spectacular waves. The surfers who really stand out to me are the ones who are consistent in all conditions. Their take offs, turns, style, usage of the wave they are given are always top notch, and in total control. You can even tell in the way they control their kick out if the wave is not working. Some of them are short boarders with heavy spray throwing turns, some midlength guys with flow, and some loggers and even some hi-pro longboard guys. The best totally control their chosen vessel. The best just totally own it on every wave. And the next part of the equation is age. With most of the real rippers i see daily i am going to say less than 10% of them look over 40 years old. So i focus on the over 40 crowd more to set my bar. Most of the over 40 crew who rips might not b… |
| 289757 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 39 | SeniorGrom | Aug 15, 2023 | 2023-08-15T07:43:55-0400 | mightyrime said: This thread is really reflecting something i have been thinking a lot about lately, especially as i am approaching the age of 50. I want to rip, and i try to rip, and at times i really feel like i am ripping. For me ripping is a personal thing. Of course i have some ego as we all do, and we all crave acceptance and fan fare, but ultimately i am setting my personal standard for what ripping is for me. For me the definition of ripping is total control in almost any condition. Then i think what does this mean... start with a bell curve. As much as i like the surf super heroes like Torren Martyn, Ryan Burch, Mickey Feb...etc... that crew of super stars are beyond the rip so they get chopped from the top. And brand new beginners get taken out of the equation at the bottom. With whats left are the surfers i generally see day to day. I am lucky that i live in an area that once or twice a week i am sharing the lineup with a pro or highly ranked amateur, as well as some ex pros, and locals who truly rip. The waves are good here but not perfect everyday so it allows me to witness very high end surfing on less than spectacular waves. The surfers who really stand out to me are the ones who are consistent in all conditions. Their take offs, turns, style, usage of the wave they are given are always top notch, and in total control. You can even tell in the way they control their kick out if the wave is not working. Some of them are short boarders with heavy spray throwing turns, some midlength guys with flow, and some loggers and even some hi-pro longboard guys. The best totally control their chosen vessel. The best just totally own it on every wave. And the next part of the equation is age. With most of the real rippers i see daily i am going to say less than 10% of them look over 40 years old. So i focus on the over 40 crowd more to set my bar. Most of the over 40 crew who rips might not b… |
| 289760 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 40 | JTS | Aug 15, 2023 | 2023-08-15T08:25:26-0400 | Rip ? Naaah . I ve been surfing a long time, consider myself a competent and solid surfer- but not a ripper As I close in on 65, I usually shy away from the prime peak if I have to compete with aggro Alpha males half my age. If I get 3 or 4 good waves I’m happy. I’ve got friends I surf with that go back 20 or 30 years-I enjoy the banter in the parking lot and the lineup as much as the surf I’ve accepted that I don’t rip, as long as I can keep surfing! “The older I get , the better I was” ;-) |
| 289761 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 41 | Chilly Willy | Aug 15, 2023 | 2023-08-15T08:49:45-0400 | mightyrime said: i probably could have skipped the essay and just said " no i have not fully accepted it yet" Click to expand... Totally glad you wrote the essay because it was a good read and I was right there with you. Excellent point about control -- if you think about it, all board sports are really about exactly that, demonstrating their board control. The guys that totally rip can make their board do anything they want. There are even some guys who rip but look like they're on the edge of out of control (Al Knost), but their actual board control is still completely on point. Also a great point about the kick out. It's easily overlooked but I think having a solid kick out is one of the easiest ways to look like you know what you're doing. |
| 289764 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 42 | SeniorGrom | Aug 15, 2023 | 2023-08-15T09:24:17-0400 | Also think about the countless videos of Joel Tudor navigating a packed lineup. So smooth and poised weaving around all those sitting inside. Complete control and seems to be surfing the wave the way he wants, unfazed by obstacles. |
| 289769 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 43 | mightyrime | Aug 15, 2023 | 2023-08-15T12:10:37-0400 | The other thing about getting to the ripper stage is i think that last 10% is the hardest to overcome. The difference between competent / adv. intermediate or what ever you want to call it to become a certified ripper is all about such micro body mechanics. To the untrained eye it does not look like much, but to us its massive. Just the small difference in stance, take off position, and shift in body weight makes all the difference. It makes sense that there are endless instagram feeds from pseudo surf coaches giving endless surf technique advice because there are so many little movements that need fixing. I do have time to surf a few days a week but i dont have time for endless training of surf skates, muscles work outs, etcc... I wonder if you would actually get to ripper stage faster with less surfing and more out of the water training. Has anyone here fully embraced one of the surf coaching / training programs and seen big results? |
| 289784 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 44 | applebutter | Aug 15, 2023 | 2023-08-15T13:26:36-0400 | mightyrime said: The other thing about getting to the ripper stage is i think that last 10% is the hardest to overcome. The difference between competent / adv. intermediate or what ever you want to call it to become a certified ripper is all about such micro body mechanics. To the untrained eye it does not look like much, but to us its massive. Just the small difference in stance, take off position, and shift in body weight makes all the difference. It makes sense that there are endless instagram feeds from pseudo surf coaches giving endless surf technique advice because there are so many little movements that need fixing. I do have time to surf a few days a week but i dont have time for endless training of surf skates, muscles work outs, etcc... I wonder if you would actually get to ripper stage faster with less surfing and more out of the water training. Has anyone here fully embraced one of the surf coaching / training programs and seen big results? Click to expand... I think after a certain age cross training is mandatory to even just maintain the same level of strength, mobility and stamina. I'm not sure about surf coaching, im sure it helps, but surf skates do nothing for surfing in my opinion (except get you on a board). All in all, just surfing isn't enough. |
| 289789 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 45 | PeakMaster | Aug 15, 2023 | 2023-08-15T13:54:59-0400 | mightyrime said: The other thing about getting to the ripper stage is i think that last 10% is the hardest to overcome. The difference between competent / adv. intermediate or what ever you want to call it to become a certified ripper is all about such micro body mechanics. To the untrained eye it does not look like much, but to us its massive. Just the small difference in stance, take off position, and shift in body weight makes all the difference. It makes sense that there are endless instagram feeds from pseudo surf coaches giving endless surf technique advice because there are so many little movements that need fixing. I do have time to surf a few days a week but i dont have time for endless training of surf skates, muscles work outs, etcc... I wonder if you would actually get to ripper stage faster with less surfing and more out of the water training. Has anyone here fully embraced one of the surf coaching / training programs and seen big results? Click to expand... Surf coaching in NJ is a clown show. Surf schools for kids are OK but can be bothersome if the waves are decent. The so-called surf coaching consists of clowns trying to teach clowns and crowding decent breaks in the process. |
| 289791 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 46 | xjaywalker | Aug 15, 2023 | 2023-08-15T14:21:25-0400 | Also, new to this site. And The reason for joining is exactly what Warchild posted. I been surfing since the age of 15, grew up in HB. Influenced by “the latest surf design “growing up, as you did and with physical limitations have found myself in denial. My mind is trying to tell me I still have a the ability to surf the way I used to ( never really was a ripping, shredding, kind of surfer) I grew developed my own style of bottom turns, cutbacks, trimming, and nose riding ( last 30 years surfing Old Man’s. Now I have to be honest about my abilities ( injuries take to long to recover from at 70) and find a new board that I will enjoy for my last 20 years (God willing). Not as strong as I used to be at paddling and I don’t surf every day, so will need some volume. I had some great sessions on a borrowed Hydohull 7’6” fun board. But that was 15 years ago. And due to a broken rib injury ( mountain biking) I may have to go with a soft top. (Almond or?) Thanks for the post and everyone’s words of experience. |
| 289813 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 47 | West81 | Aug 15, 2023 | 2023-08-15T17:36:33-0400 | mightyrime said: The other thing about getting to the ripper stage is i think that last 10% is the hardest to overcome. The difference between competent / adv. intermediate or what ever you want to call it to become a certified ripper is all about such micro body mechanics. To the untrained eye it does not look like much, but to us its massive. Just the small difference in stance, take off position, and shift in body weight makes all the difference. It makes sense that there are endless instagram feeds from pseudo surf coaches giving endless surf technique advice because there are so many little movements that need fixing. I do have time to surf a few days a week but i dont have time for endless training of surf skates, muscles work outs, etcc... I wonder if you would actually get to ripper stage faster with less surfing and more out of the water training. Has anyone here fully embraced one of the surf coaching / training programs and seen big results? Click to expand... I do think some people are just genetically inclined to be good at physical activity. Born athletes that would probably excel in any sport they choose. I am def not like that myself. My only redeeming quality is that I can get pretty stubborn about stuff I want (to learn). I disagree strongly with the surfskate remark. I feel it's an awesome surf aid. For me not for real specific surf moves but it def increased my fitness and mobility, and smoothed out the way I use my arms |
| 289815 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 48 | TurtleTime | Aug 15, 2023 | 2023-08-15T18:22:10-0400 | still looking for that board that will make me rip. what should i get??? |
| 289817 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 49 | dingdong | Aug 15, 2023 | 2023-08-15T18:34:55-0400 | TurtleTime said: still looking for that board that will make me rip. what should i get??? Click to expand... in all seriousness...any kind of fish or simmons in any length...I'll never rip but I'm certainly maxing out the fun on certain days with any one of my 15 boards |
| 289818 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 50 | Moustache Lou | Aug 15, 2023 | 2023-08-15T18:47:12-0400 | TurtleTime said: still looking for that board that will make me rip. what should i get??? Click to expand... Pretty sure whatever the top WSL pros are riding is gonna be your best bet. Make sure it's really narrow and thin with lots of rocker. You'll be bustin' airs in no time. |
| 289819 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 51 | surf1ng | Aug 15, 2023 | 2023-08-15T18:54:43-0400 | West81 said: I disagree strongly with the surfskate remark. I feel it's an awesome surf aid. For me not for real specific surf moves but it def increased my fitness and mobility, and smoothed out the way I use my arms Click to expand... Agreed. Surfskates can add value to your surfing. I think they can help to sharpen your turns when out of the water and to help smooth out your style. |
| 289820 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 52 | surf1ng | Aug 15, 2023 | 2023-08-15T18:58:06-0400 | Nothing for me to learn to accept… I know I don’t rip. But hot damn does surfing make me smile. |
| 289837 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 53 | Warchild | Aug 16, 2023 | 2023-08-15T23:08:51-0400 | Cuttlefish said: Video your partner wearing her favourite, most expensive shoes or handbag. Did it make her look like a famous celebrity or super model? It's all about how it makes one feel. For those who would like a non video apparatus to guage your surfing let me introduce you to the analogue version: The Hootometer! When you're riding a wave and the other surfers in the water are hooting you...or being deathly silent one can use this as a measure. Click to expand... She constantly videos me in my favourite heels and handbag, and you are right, she aint buying my model vibe. |
| 289838 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 54 | Warchild | Aug 16, 2023 | 2023-08-15T23:10:45-0400 | Human said: My general rule of thumb as I age: Ride obscure boards --> Blame lack of ripping on board Click to expand... this IS the formula! |
| 289839 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 55 | Warchild | Aug 16, 2023 | 2023-08-15T23:26:28-0400 | West81 said: I am convinced hulls were created with this in mind Click to expand... mightyrime said: This thread is really reflecting something i have been thinking a lot about lately, especially as i am approaching the age of 50. I want to rip, and i try to rip, and at times i really feel like i am ripping. For me ripping is a personal thing. Of course i have some ego as we all do, and we all crave acceptance and fan fare, but ultimately i am setting my personal standard for what ripping is for me. For me the definition of ripping is total control in almost any condition. Then i think what does this mean... start with a bell curve. As much as i like the surf super heroes like Torren Martyn, Ryan Burch, Mickey Feb...etc... that crew of super stars are beyond the rip so they get chopped from the top. And brand new beginners get taken out of the equation at the bottom. With whats left are the surfers i generally see day to day. I am lucky that i live in an area that once or twice a week i am sharing the lineup with a pro or highly ranked amateur, as well as some ex pros, and locals who truly rip. The waves are good here but not perfect everyday so it allows me to witness very high end surfing on less than spectacular waves. The surfers who really stand out to me are the ones who are consistent in all conditions. Their take offs, turns, style, usage of the wave they are given are always top notch, and in total control. You can even tell in the way they control their kick out if the wave is not working. Some of them are short boarders with heavy spray throwing turns, some midlength guys with flow, and some loggers and even some hi-pro longboard guys. The best totally control their chosen vessel. The best just totally own it on every wave. And the next part of the equation is age. With most of the real rippers i see daily i am going to s… |
| 289840 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 56 | Warchild | Aug 16, 2023 | 2023-08-15T23:34:29-0400 | xjaywalker said: Also, new to this site. And The reason for joining is exactly what Warchild posted. I been surfing since the age of 15, grew up in HB. Influenced by "the latest surf design "growing up, as you did and with physical limitations have found myself in denial. My mind is trying to tell me I still have a the ability to surf the way I used to ( never really was a ripping, shredding, kind of surfer) I grew developed my own style of bottom turns, cutbacks, trimming, and nose riding ( last 30 years surfing Old Man's. Now I have to be honest about my abilities ( injuries take to long to recover from at 70) and find a new board that I will enjoy for my last 20 years (God willing). Not as strong as I used to be at paddling and I don't surf every day, so will need some volume. I had some great sessions on a borrowed Hydohull 7'6" fun board. But that was 15 years ago. And due to a broken rib injury ( mountain biking) I may have to go with a soft top. (Almond or?) Thanks for the post and everyone's words of experience. Click to expand... Anyone who is surfing at 70 can automatically be defined as ripping. I'm introducing this as a new rule. Making it through the marathon of life, working, providing, caring, and coming out the other side and still sufing - that is an achievement. Kudos! |
| 289841 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 57 | Warchild | Aug 16, 2023 | 2023-08-15T23:47:55-0400 | Really appreciating the sharing of wisdom here! So, to summarise the key themes for anyone who can't be arsed clicking on page one: There's mutual acceptance of drifting away from the liklihood of ripping as those big number birthdays come up Regardless, no one is giving up just yet, because surfing is just as amazing now as it was the day you started There is universal consensus that hulls are the 'crocs' of surfboards |
| 289854 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 58 | DanSan | Aug 16, 2023 | 2023-08-16T08:22:20-0400 | West81 said: I am convinced hulls were created with this in mind Click to expand... Blasphemy |
| 289856 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 59 | SeniorGrom | Aug 16, 2023 | 2023-08-16T09:26:16-0400 | Warchild said: Anyone who is surfing at 70 can automatically be defined as ripping. I'm introducing this as a new rule. Making it through the marathon of life, working, providing, caring, and coming out the other side and still sufing - that is an achievement. Kudos! Click to expand... One of my rules too…..when in the curl, if my head gets wet, I got barreled!! |
| 289866 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 60 | Old Dude | Aug 16, 2023 | 2023-08-16T12:06:36-0400 | Warchild said: Really appreciating the sharing of wisdom here! So, to summarise the key themes for anyone who can't be arsed clicking on page one: There's mutual acceptance of drifting away from the liklihood of ripping as those big number birthdays come up Regardless, no one is giving up just yet, because surfing is just as amazing now as it was the day you started There is universal consensus that hulls are the 'crocs' of surfboards Click to expand... You forget that just going down the line, maybe with a hullish board, feels like walking on water Getting older is not a problem, it only needs some luck and daily training routines. I do indoor rowing to stay in shape, but if I do not row for 5 days, it is getting pretty difficult to go back to it. So first tip, if you want to surf longer, is stay in shape and find some exercise, which you could do on a daily basis. If your circumstances allow for it, surf every day! |
| 289873 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 61 | PeakMaster | Aug 16, 2023 | 2023-08-16T12:37:04-0400 | Old Dude said: You forget that just going down the line, maybe with a hullish board, feels like walking on water Getting older is not a problem, it only needs some luck and daily training routines. I do indoor rowing to stay in shape, but if I do not row for 5 days, it is getting pretty difficult to go back to it. So first tip, if you want to surf longer, is stay in shape and find some exercise, which you could do on a daily basis. If your circumstances allow for it, surf every day! Click to expand... The Concept2 rower is an outstanding machine. |
| 289888 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 62 | Nilus | Aug 16, 2023 | 2023-08-16T14:00:54-0400 | I've probably posted some of this before elsewhere. But basically, I'm currently 46. Always wanted to surf but was landlocked for the first 18-20 years so snowboarding was all I really had except for one week a year at the beach (boogie boarding). Then the next 15 years or so I had a little more opportunity but a 9-5 and living on the East Coast greatly limited my sessions per year. I had a few shortboards but mostly gravitated toward longboards and alternative shapes (hence my presence on this forum since the very early days). After moving to California and having my daughter start getting serious about surfing, I've ended up pushing myself a lot more to ride higher-performance equipment, surf more challenging waves, and to focus a bit more on technique. I watched her getting better and better, largely through time in the water ... often surfing the marginal days that I considered unworthy -- both because of my equipment choices and also because, frankly, I didn't have the quickness it required. So really, it's only been a few years since I've been trying to actually rip. In my mind, that means riding sub 6' boards and performing major maneuvers like full cutbacks, off the lips, etc. While I'm not fully there, I've made a lot of progress. I now expect to be ripping by age 50 or so. The other interesting thing is that pushing the envelope a bit hasn't diminished my enjoyment of -- or skills with -- longboards, fish, etc. There's nothing like the feeling of doing the best turn of your life, whatever the frame of reference. And there's also nothing like standing perfectly still in trim on a 10' glider. Bottom line: It's very possible to improve later in life, no matter what your starting point or end goal. It's a mix of intention and practice. The former can be as simple as considering the lines you draw and deciding to try something a little more radical next time you paddle out. I could write another 10,000 words on the latter -- but everything helps, whether visu… |
| 289895 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 63 | Warchild | Aug 16, 2023 | 2023-08-16T15:41:51-0400 | Old Dude said: You forget that just going down the line, maybe with a hullish board, feels like walking on water Getting older is not a problem, it only needs some luck and daily training routines. I do indoor rowing to stay in shape, but if I do not row for 5 days, it is getting pretty difficult to go back to it. So first tip, if you want to surf longer, is stay in shape and find some exercise, which you could do on a daily basis. If your circumstances allow for it, surf every day! Click to expand... Full disclosure: I have never ridden a hull, and my only understanding of them comes from watching Jimmy Gamboa in One California Day. Never ridden crocs either, but that decision feels right. Amen on the exercise regime required to surf to 70 and beyond as others are doing here. I think the additional exercise/training is as important as the right board. Pre 40, not so much! |
| 289897 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 64 | Warchild | Aug 16, 2023 | 2023-08-16T15:50:58-0400 | Nilus said: I've probably posted some of this before elsewhere. But basically, I'm currently 46. Always wanted to surf but was landlocked for the first 18-20 years so snowboarding was all I really had except for one week a year at the beach (boogie boarding). Then the next 15 years or so I had a little more opportunity but a 9-5 and living on the East Coast greatly limited my sessions per year. I had a few shortboards but mostly gravitated toward longboards and alternative shapes (hence my presence on this forum since the very early days). After moving to California and having my daughter start getting serious about surfing, I've ended up pushing myself a lot more to ride higher-performance equipment, surf more challenging waves, and to focus a bit more on technique. I watched her getting better and better, largely through time in the water ... often surfing the marginal days that I considered unworthy -- both because of my equipment choices and also because, frankly, I didn't have the quickness it required. So really, it's only been a few years since I've been trying to actually rip. In my mind, that means riding sub 6' boards and performing major maneuvers like full cutbacks, off the lips, etc. While I'm not fully there, I've made a lot of progress. I now expect to be ripping by age 50 or so. The other interesting thing is that pushing the envelope a bit hasn't diminished my enjoyment of -- or skills with -- longboards, fish, etc. There's nothing like the feeling of doing the best turn of your life, whatever the frame of reference. And there's also nothing like standing perfectly still in trim on a 10' glider. Bottom line: It's very possible to improve later in life, no matter what your starting point or end goal. It's a mix of intention and practice. The former can be as simple as considering the lines you draw and deciding to try something a little more radical next time you paddle out. I could write another 10,000 words on the latter -- … |
| 289898 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 65 | Chilly Willy | Aug 16, 2023 | 2023-08-16T16:14:34-0400 | mightyrime said: I wonder if you would actually get to ripper stage faster with less surfing and more out of the water training. Has anyone here fully embraced one of the surf coaching / training programs and seen big results? Click to expand... Not about surf coaching or training programs, but two things that have been somewhat helpful for me: (1) Skateboarding a lot, particularly carving in bowls. It doesn't have to be a surfskate necessarily. I find that it makes some small changes in my body english and has changed my perception and awareness of how I engage my rails and going from rail to rail. Not sure why this is, but it just has. (2) Filming and rewatching video of myself. I generally enjoy that whole process of capturing video for posterity, fun, and progress, so I picked up a Soloshot. Plenty of pros and cons can be said about them depending on your outlook on that kind of stuff, but I like it for myself. I definitely notice some things that need improvement -- one big example that I'm trying to overcome is my tendency to turn early instead of dropping in straight and then cranking a bottom turn to take advantage of all that thrust that can be derived from a proper turn. Here's the thing though: seeing these things that need correction is one thing, but being conscious of them AND correcting them is another. It's hard to remember these things in the heat of the moment, or maybe there are other reasons (fear, reluctance to blow a nice wave, etc). The biggest thing for me is really the reluctance to blow a great wave. ^ To that last point, I have never surfed a wave pool, but I would imagine that in a perfect world being able to dial up some ultra consistent waves to practice on would be key. No worries about blowing a nice wave. No variables of differing waves to deal with. (And as I said, perfect world -- no one else would be in the water to compete for these waves.) Just dial up the Trestles setting and let me work for a few … |
| 289902 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 66 | mightyrime | Aug 16, 2023 | 2023-08-16T17:10:03-0400 | Chilly Willy said: Not about surf coaching or training programs, but two things that have been somewhat helpful for me: (1) Skateboarding a lot, particularly carving in bowls. It doesn't have to be a surfskate necessarily. I find that it makes some small changes in my body english and has changed my perception and awareness of how I engage my rails and going from rail to rail. Not sure why this is, but it just has. (2) Filming and rewatching video of myself. I generally enjoy that whole process of capturing video for posterity, fun, and progress, so I picked up a Soloshot. Plenty of pros and cons can be said about them depending on your outlook on that kind of stuff, but I like it for myself. I definitely notice some things that need improvement -- one big example that I'm trying to overcome is my tendency to turn early instead of dropping in straight and then cranking a bottom turn to take advantage of all that thrust that can be derived from a proper turn. Here's the thing though: seeing these things that need correction is one thing, but being conscious of them AND correcting them is another. It's hard to remember these things in the heat of the moment, or maybe there are other reasons (fear, reluctance to blow a nice wave, etc). The biggest thing for me is really the reluctance to blow a great wave. ^ To that last point, I have never surfed a wave pool, but I would imagine that in a perfect world being able to dial up some ultra consistent waves to practice on would be key. No worries about blowing a nice wave. No variables of differing waves to deal with. (And as I said, perfect world -- no one else would be in the water to compete for these waves.) Just dial up the Trestles setting and let me work for a few hours on dropping down for that killer bottom turn over and over again. Click to expand... I have the same problem when dropping in where i turn to early. Actually my biggest problem is turning too early in general. I think becau… |
| 289904 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 67 | hardyw | Aug 16, 2023 | 2023-08-16T18:22:22-0400 | I think what makes you rip is time on the wave. Knowing every single scenario and how to shift your weight based on one tiny feature of the wave because you have seen it 1000x before. The best guys make this look effortless. As mentioned I think wave pools are a game changer bc they can artificially create this time on the wave that up until now could only be accessed by putting in the work in the ocean in all conditions day after day after day. |
| 289906 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 68 | TheEL | Aug 16, 2023 | 2023-08-16T18:55:49-0400 | I manifest buckets. |
| 290023 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 69 | Warchild | Aug 18, 2023 | 2023-08-18T04:42:39-0400 | Chilly Willy said: Not about surf coaching or training programs, but two things that have been somewhat helpful for me: (1) Skateboarding a lot, particularly carving in bowls. It doesn't have to be a surfskate necessarily. I find that it makes some small changes in my body english and has changed my perception and awareness of how I engage my rails and going from rail to rail. Not sure why this is, but it just has. (2) Filming and rewatching video of myself. I generally enjoy that whole process of capturing video for posterity, fun, and progress, so I picked up a Soloshot. Plenty of pros and cons can be said about them depending on your outlook on that kind of stuff, but I like it for myself. I definitely notice some things that need improvement -- one big example that I'm trying to overcome is my tendency to turn early instead of dropping in straight and then cranking a bottom turn to take advantage of all that thrust that can be derived from a proper turn. Here's the thing though: seeing these things that need correction is one thing, but being conscious of them AND correcting them is another. It's hard to remember these things in the heat of the moment, or maybe there are other reasons (fear, reluctance to blow a nice wave, etc). The biggest thing for me is really the reluctance to blow a great wave. ^ To that last point, I have never surfed a wave pool, but I would imagine that in a perfect world being able to dial up some ultra consistent waves to practice on would be key. No worries about blowing a nice wave. No variables of differing waves to deal with. (And as I said, perfect world -- no one else would be in the water to compete for these waves.) Just dial up the Trestles setting and let me work for a few hours on dropping down for that killer bottom turn over and over again. Click to expand... |
| 290024 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 70 | Warchild | Aug 18, 2023 | 2023-08-18T04:46:13-0400 | Warchild said: Click to expand... Down with the whole solo shot thingy. I'd love to have one. But maybe we all need the gizmo that Skipper breaks out at 1.38 in this review, cause you never can tell which way the wind is blowing. I actually love this guy - he's so earnest, basically gives zero fk's and just does his thing. |
| 291468 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 71 | bhalavik | Sep 8, 2023 | 2023-09-08T08:51:21-0400 | Longest wave wins…. |
| 292701 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 72 | Zenzen | Sep 23, 2023 | 2023-09-23T06:27:30-0400 | Good thread, some really cool perspectives. I've been surfing for 40 years, and was a pretty good shortboard surfer for much of it. Not pro level, but a decent surfer who could certainly hold my own. In my mid 40's I started to really feel the struggle of riding a 5'9 shorty and continually trying to mix it with the kids. Paddling was harder, and frankly, I just couldn't be bothered with the hassle. I was also kind of board with shortboard surfing in general. I wasn't ripping, and nor were any of the guys my age in the water struggling on the same equipment. Sooo, I went up a foot on a shorter McTavish midlength, and got bagged mercilessly by my mates, who just couldn't accept the change. But what a revelation. Surfing suddenly felt fresh again, and my then 35 years of lineup experience came into it's own with more foam, more paddle power and a much higher wave count. I can clearly remember my first session, guys were hooting, complimenting me on waves, asking what I was riding etc etc. The lesson; you have to adapt and change to equipment that will allow you to leverage your experience and know how. I spent a year on the midlength, before trying a log for the first time in my life, and everything completely and irreversibly changed at that point. I'm hooked. I tried the ride the midlength again once or twice, but it felt terrible. I don't rip on a log, I know that, I've seen the footage. But the feel of that surfboard in the water, and it's glide and flow and trim is an indescribable joy to me. It just feels so pure. I only wish I had found it 30 years earlier. |
| 292702 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 73 | shadydave | Sep 23, 2023 | 2023-09-23T06:41:09-0400 | Zenzen said: Good thread, some really cool perspectives. I've been surfing for 40 years, and was a pretty good shortboard surfer for much of it. Not pro level, but a decent surfer who could certainly hold my own. In my mid 40's I started to really feel the struggle of riding a 5'9 shorty and continually trying to mix it with the kids. Paddling was harder, and frankly, I just couldn't be bothered with the hassle. I was also kind of board with shortboard surfing in general. I wasn't ripping, and nor were any of the guys my age in the water struggling on the same equipment. Sooo, I went up a foot on a shorter McTavish midlength, and got bagged mercilessly by my mates, who just couldn't accept the change. But what a revelation. Surfing suddenly felt fresh again, and my then 35 years of lineup experience came into it's own with more foam, more paddle power and a much higher wave count. I can clearly remember my first session, guys were hooting, complimenting me on waves, asking what I was riding etc etc. The lesson; you have to adapt and change to equipment that will allow you to leverage your experience and know how. I spent a year on the midlength, before trying a log for the first time in my life, and everything completely and irreversibly changed at that point. I'm hooked. I tried the ride the midlength again once or twice, but it felt terrible. I don't rip on a log, I know that, I've seen the footage. But the feel of that surfboard in the water, and it's glide and flow and trim is an indescribable joy to me. It just feels so pure. I only wish I had found it 30 years earlier. Click to expand... Just wait until you experience a glider. |
| 292703 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 74 | West81 | Sep 23, 2023 | 2023-09-23T06:52:33-0400 | Ha! I was going to post the exact same thing Once you go eleven foot there is no turning back |
| 292784 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 75 | Outside | Sep 24, 2023 | 2023-09-23T22:56:45-0400 | Until you surf a 12'. Talk about planning ahead! |
| 292786 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 76 | SeniorGrom | Sep 24, 2023 | 2023-09-23T23:19:45-0400 | bhalavik said: Longest wave wins…. Click to expand... This is exactly what I attempt to avoid. Sure I don't rip but given the choice I'm paddling over to a steeper peak or trying to find a wave that walls up. Our local spot sometimes has both. I do get plenty of long long rides on the outside bar but what feels like going straight for 200 yards in whitewater isn't even a memorable challenge. Then I have to paddle back and need a rest! |
| 292823 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 77 | Warchild | Sep 24, 2023 | 2023-09-24T16:29:09-0400 | Zenzen said: Good thread, some really cool perspectives. I've been surfing for 40 years, and was a pretty good shortboard surfer for much of it. Not pro level, but a decent surfer who could certainly hold my own. In my mid 40's I started to really feel the struggle of riding a 5'9 shorty and continually trying to mix it with the kids. Paddling was harder, and frankly, I just couldn't be bothered with the hassle. I was also kind of board with shortboard surfing in general. I wasn't ripping, and nor were any of the guys my age in the water struggling on the same equipment. Sooo, I went up a foot on a shorter McTavish midlength, and got bagged mercilessly by my mates, who just couldn't accept the change. But what a revelation. Surfing suddenly felt fresh again, and my then 35 years of lineup experience came into it's own with more foam, more paddle power and a much higher wave count. I can clearly remember my first session, guys were hooting, complimenting me on waves, asking what I was riding etc etc. The lesson; you have to adapt and change to equipment that will allow you to leverage your experience and know how. I spent a year on the midlength, before trying a log for the first time in my life, and everything completely and irreversibly changed at that point. I'm hooked. I tried the ride the midlength again once or twice, but it felt terrible. I don't rip on a log, I know that, I've seen the footage. But the feel of that surfboard in the water, and it's glide and flow and trim is an indescribable joy to me. It just feels so pure. I only wish I had found it 30 years earlier. Click to expand... Amen on wish I had figured this out 30 years ago! |
| 292824 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 78 | DJR | Sep 24, 2023 | 2023-09-24T16:54:14-0400 | Reading and re-reading has me wondering what about if in turn one never really ripped at all and plateaued at say 17? |
| 292827 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 79 | Wadeinthewater | Sep 24, 2023 | 2023-09-24T17:13:28-0400 | I recall Peter Cole saying something along the lines of…..”You‘re born a kook and you die a kook, in between is a big arc” use to see him charge Sunset till well into his seventies |
| 292841 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 80 | shredsickgnar | Sep 25, 2023 | 2023-09-24T21:14:22-0400 | As I grow in my surfing adventure, I agree with what some of you have said about board control. When I see some with perfect board control, wave knowledge and smooth style; I consider that ripping now too. It doesn't necessarily have to be radical surfing. Some 120lb kid can blast an air reverse and hop and flail around when doing it but is that really ripping? I mean well yeah it probably is. I can't do it. But I have a growing respect for someone that clearly has put in the time to control their board and place it in the correct parts of the wave and can link some turns together(or walk around on it). They don't have to be difficult turns or throw a ton of spray, just nice turns on the right part of the wave. I think that kind of surfing can be done at any age. |
| 292842 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 81 | xaaronx | Sep 25, 2023 | 2023-09-24T21:27:27-0400 | DJR said: Reading and re-reading has me wondering what about if in turn one never really ripped at all and plateaued at say 17? Click to expand... I think my peak was mid 20s and I'm just trying to get back to halfway decent after a decade out of the water. I know I never ripped, though. |
| 292844 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 82 | xjaywalker | Sep 25, 2023 | 2023-09-24T22:06:16-0400 | shredsickgnar said: As I grow in my surfing adventure, I agree with what some of you have said about board control. When I see some with perfect board control, wave knowledge and smooth style; I consider that ripping now too. It doesn't necessarily have to be radical surfing. Some 120lb kid can blast an air reverse and hop and flail around when doing it but is that really ripping? I mean well yeah it probably is. I can't do it. But I have a growing respect for someone that clearly has put in the time to control their board and place it in the correct parts of the wave and can link some turns together(or walk around on it). They don't have to be difficult turns or throw a ton of spray, just nice turns on the right part of the wave. I think that kind of surfing can be done at any age. Click to expand... Agreed. At the age of 70 and having surfed for over 50 years, I am happy just paddling g out. And stoked for when younger kids and young ladies enjoy the waves around me. And I woot and cheer them on when they catch a good wave and have a big smile. And my definition of "ripping" has changed. You described it above. It's a plus for me to still paddle into a 2-4 ft wave at DOHO or Sano, and make a few turns and glide down the line. And that's puts a smile on my face. And grateful I have been given the opportunity to enjoy this lifestyle for all these years... |
| 292850 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 83 | Ricksurfin | Sep 25, 2023 | 2023-09-24T23:09:51-0400 | xjaywalker, what you wrote could have come from me word for word. Same exact scenario for me. Thanks |
| 293777 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 84 | CaptJAQ | Oct 4, 2023 | 2023-10-04T17:55:12-0400 | Just turned 60, have been surfing 47 years of that. I don't know if I've ever ripped. Definitely charge, though. I like to catch big waves, and flow nicely on what the wave gives me. My path was a little odd. Started on a 6'4" single-fin winger swallow tail. (Like everyone else rode in 1976.) I was small, so that board floated me well. I progressed through twins, quads, twinzers, have a 7'6" thruster "gun", for rhino chasing. But I've always loved longboarding. I was gifted a 10'0" vintage Weber Performer by a friend's family who wanted it out of their garage! After that day, it was my primary board, even though I rode all the others. It helped that I was surfing mostly in Cape May County, NJ where most of the breaks are good for a longboard. I also had a 7'6" mini-tanker. In 1995 I decided to retire the Weber, and get a HPLB. A 10'0" Country Surfboards custom. That thing rips, and can handle any size surf, due to lots of rocker. It pushes a bit of water when the surf is small, but OMG is it a dream in overhead surf! Now I live near DC, and still surf from Ocean County NJ all the way down to the Outer Banks. So, here we are in 2023, and I'm about to take delivery of an Epoxy 9'6" Asym Custom InTheEye shaped by Scott Busbey. The best way to get a great board is to order a custom from a shaper who knows what conditions you like to ride, how you like to surf, and is familiar with the surf you'll be riding. I'm ready for my next chapter in my surfing life, expecting to be inspired by a lighter weight board with some fun features. Will I rip on it? IDK. As long as my surfing makes me smile, and maybe brings a smile onto the faces of others in the lineup, that's awesome. |
| 293791 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 85 | JTS | Oct 4, 2023 | 2023-10-04T19:51:47-0400 | Good call on Busbey, Scott is a great guy and shaper |
| 293799 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 86 | CaptJAQ | Oct 5, 2023 | 2023-10-04T20:34:20-0400 | JTS said: Good call on Busbey, Scott is a great guy and shaper Click to expand... Absolutely! |
| 298028 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 87 | Moustache Lou | Nov 23, 2023 | 2023-11-23T12:24:26-0500 | This morning I definitely didn’t rip, but I did get my most fun wave of the year… On a morning of lots of close outs, I got a nice little left that lined up all the way to the beach on the Fat Cat (fresh from some minor repairs at Roper’s)… up to the nose (as close as I can get, which is ‘on the nose’, but no ‘toes over’ ) , step back for a little cutback, and repeat…. Happy thanksgiving all! |
| 298163 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 88 | Kronix | Nov 25, 2023 | 2023-11-25T10:26:04-0500 | paipodude said: A good surfrider can ride any board very well anywhere. Then there is the rest of us! We need help. Ironically, certain small design differents in a board can make a big difference for us average folks so good reason to have a few boards to match different waves and sizes. Likewise, a talented rider can forever exploit those incremental design changes in ways I will never go. Nonetheless, there is nothing like a good surf. Click to expand... Agreed Paipodude! Been surfing for nearly 50 of my 58 years, and I can attest that I can surf every board I've ever tried or ridden. I'm sure we've all tried it, swapping boards with a buddy, etc & riding waves. For those that can't surf or are beginners, besides a Soft Top or a SUP, ditching the paddle & just riding the board, I don't think that there is a magic board that'll make you stand up & be a surfer. Surfing takes time to be halfway good, years at a matter of fact. Being out on the ocean takes away all your frustration, pain, and the daily drag of life. Doesn't matter the board, it just gives you THAT feeling & that's why we surf! |
| 298192 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 89 | surf1ng | Nov 25, 2023 | 2023-11-25T15:50:38-0500 | Kronix said: Agreed Paipodude! Been surfing for nearly 50 of my 58 years, and I can attest that I can surf every board I've ever tried or ridden. I'm sure we've all tried it, swapping boards with a buddy, etc & riding waves. For those that can't surf or are beginners, besides a Soft Top or a SUP, ditching the paddle & just riding the board, I don't think that there is a magic board that'll make you stand up & be a surfer. Surfing takes time to be halfway good, years at a matter of fact. Being out on the ocean takes away all your frustration, pain, and the daily drag of life. Doesn't matter the board, it just gives you THAT feeling & that's why we surf! Click to expand... Amen! |
| 298240 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 90 | hardyw | Nov 26, 2023 | 2023-11-26T10:30:44-0500 | xjaywalker said: Agreed. At the age of 70 and having surfed for over 50 years, I am happy just paddling g out. And stoked for when younger kids and young ladies enjoy the waves around me. And I woot and cheer them on when they catch a good wave and have a big smile. And my definition of "ripping" has changed. You described it above. It's a plus for me to still paddle into a 2-4 ft wave at DOHO or Sano, and make a few turns and glide down the line. And that's puts a smile on my face. And grateful I have been given the opportunity to enjoy this lifestyle for all these years... Click to expand... This is the Skip Frye approach. I saw an interview where he said the best surfer is the guy having the most fun. Have thought about that many times since and try and keep it top of mind when paddling out. Also if you watch Skip surf (most recent clip I've seen is a few years old, not sure if he is still paddling out) his style is very simple. Lots of flow and it just looks like he's having fun |
| 298256 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 91 | Bruce Fowler | Nov 26, 2023 | 2023-11-26T12:46:08-0500 | I don't know if any of us really have to accept the thread's title.....? "Ripping" can mean many things to many people. Ultra smooth flowing surfing of a younger Mike Hynson in the "Summer Endless aka Endless Summer" can fall away to a fluid Andy Neumann, Stu Fredricks or Renny Yater @ Rincon or the Ranch........ or the 'further south' Skip Frye on a mega sized Glider years ago. The fluid surfing of today's Torren Martyn isstrangely resonating with the lines & moves of Terry Fitz in this Vimeo. Both radically smooth, fluid, instinctually gifted....... My Bottom Line? Doing aerials, jerky dis-harmonic planet killing snaps, twirlybirds or "Rodeo Loops" isn't a pre-requistite to uh, ..... "ripping". Do you ........ "grok"? Watch this grasshopper......... and contemplate. https://eos.surf/video/entry/terry-...itzgerald/?fbclid=IwAR0fYwSeQUgVNa5DT5AtlB0__As4_apSpxjbt-rGXi1keHf1nzMRlQmsm9Q |
| 298260 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 92 | xaaronx | Nov 26, 2023 | 2023-11-26T14:07:25-0500 | hardyw said: This is the Skip Frye approach. I saw an interview where he said the best surfer is the guy having the most fun. Have thought about that many times since and try and keep it top of mind when paddling out. Also if you watch Skip surf (most recent clip I've seen is a few years old, not sure if he is still paddling out) his style is very simple. Lots of flow and it just looks like he's having fun Click to expand... That's the goal I'll be striving toward without ever reaching. |
| 298262 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 93 | Bruce Fowler | Nov 26, 2023 | 2023-11-26T14:27:48-0500 | I recall hearing a story relating to uh, it was either Bruce Brown or might have been Hobie...... "he was extraordinarily smooth........ he could paddle out with a full glass of water on the nose, surf a couple of hours and it would still be full at the end of the session...." .....takes me back to an old "Surfer Magazine" article titled: "Some Like it Smooth". |
| 298267 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 94 | Moustache Lou | Nov 26, 2023 | 2023-11-26T15:27:35-0500 | Recently at Tourmaline I took off right (backside for me) on a set wave and did a bit of a backside rail grab with my right hand trailing in the face of the wave… was I ripping? Decidedly not, I just haven’t gotten the hang of surfing backside back yet (I’m getting better though!)… Sure seemed to impress the guy on the Wavestorm paddling out though (“That was awesome!”) so maybe in some sense I WAS ‘ripping’ And just the other day at the Shores I inadvertently dropped in on an older lady on an SUP…. I kicked out (fairly gracefully, I think) the instant I saw her behind me, and she rode the wave all the way in to the shorebreak…. When she paddled back out I apologized and fully expected to get an earful from her (she seemed to be well-known in the water, not just some rando), but she just said, “No worries, and besides you seem to know what you’re doing… you know how it can get out here.” That and a few fun lefts were as close as I needed to feel like I was (by my personal standards) ‘ripping’. |
| 298283 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 95 | paipodude | Nov 26, 2023 | 2023-11-26T18:11:33-0500 | Bruce Fowler said: I recall hearing a story relating to uh, it was either Bruce Brown or might have been Hobie...... "he was extraordinarily smooth........ he could paddle out with a full glass of water on the nose, surf a couple of hours and it would still be full at the end of the session...." .....takes me back to an old "Surfer Magazine" article titled: "Some Like it Smooth". Click to expand... R.I.P. Riding in Perfection. Anyway, that is how I interpreted the thread title, riding in a high level of performance. An archback, ten over the nose, for several seconds of bliss, is ripping. Someday I will R.I.P. |
| 298287 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 96 | Bruce Fowler | Nov 26, 2023 | 2023-11-26T18:29:13-0500 | I'm not Australian, but I think there is waaaay too much attention to noseriding and all the antics connected with being up front. Grant it, it has its place but it shouldn't be the whole context of why you ride a longboard. If you look at the fluid connecting of turns & cutbacks, drop knee turns, on rail ala Phil Edwrads, Midget Farrelly, Mike Hynson, Nat Young, Dora, Barry Kanaiapuni, Jay Riddle, early day Bobby Patterson, Cooper, Peck and others..... there was a far more pleasing balance and relationship to harmonzing while surfing a wave than when we got OCD w/Nuuhiwa's up front antics........ even tho his weighting & unweighting w/feline grace was both beautiful & impressive. Billy Hamilton's cutbacks, Cowboy Henderson's parallel stance shuffles....... |
| 298289 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 97 | xaaronx | Nov 26, 2023 | 2023-11-26T18:40:00-0500 | Bruce Fowler said: I'm not Australian, but I think there is waaaay too much attention to noseriding and all the antics connected with being up front. Grant it, it has its place but it shouldn't be the whole context of why you ride a longboard. If you look at the fluid connecting of turns & cutbacks, drop knee turns, on rail ala Phil Edwrads, Midget Farrelly, Mike Hynson, Nat Young, Dora, Barry Kanaiapuni, Jay Riddle, early day Bobby Patterson, Cooper, Peck and others..... there was a far more pleasing balance and relationship to harmonzing whilesurfing a wave than when we got OCD w/Nuuhiwa's up front antics........ even tho his weighting & unweighting w/feline grace was both beautiful & impressive. Billy Hamilton's cutbacks, Cowboy Henderson's parallel stance shuffles....... Click to expand... Agreed. |
| 298294 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 98 | paipodude | Nov 27, 2023 | 2023-11-26T19:20:11-0500 | paipodude said: R.I.P. Riding in Perfection. Anyway, that is how I interpreted the thread title, riding in a high level of performance. An archback, ten over the nose, for several seconds of bliss, is ripping. Someday I will R.I.P. Click to expand... Yup, that was just once example of what I would call rippin' it up. That slash 'n tear I would not call ripping. |
| 298362 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 99 | zippy | Nov 27, 2023 | 2023-11-27T11:13:14-0500 | It’s been said that “acceptance is the answer to all our problems…” If that is true then Not ripping is not one of my problems. Just getting to surf is good enough for me. |
| 298480 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 100 | Qustom | Nov 28, 2023 | 2023-11-28T14:51:12-0500 | This thread ruined my session yesterday. I couldn't stop thinking about it. Today it never entered my mind and I went back to RIPPING! haha |
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