posts: 289840
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| post_id | thread_id | thread_title | post_number | author_username | post_date | post_date_iso | post_body |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 289840 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 56 | Warchild | Aug 16, 2023 | 2023-08-15T23:34:29-0400 | xjaywalker said: Also, new to this site. And The reason for joining is exactly what Warchild posted. I been surfing since the age of 15, grew up in HB. Influenced by "the latest surf design "growing up, as you did and with physical limitations have found myself in denial. My mind is trying to tell me I still have a the ability to surf the way I used to ( never really was a ripping, shredding, kind of surfer) I grew developed my own style of bottom turns, cutbacks, trimming, and nose riding ( last 30 years surfing Old Man's. Now I have to be honest about my abilities ( injuries take to long to recover from at 70) and find a new board that I will enjoy for my last 20 years (God willing). Not as strong as I used to be at paddling and I don't surf every day, so will need some volume. I had some great sessions on a borrowed Hydohull 7'6" fun board. But that was 15 years ago. And due to a broken rib injury ( mountain biking) I may have to go with a soft top. (Almond or?) Thanks for the post and everyone's words of experience. Click to expand... Anyone who is surfing at 70 can automatically be defined as ripping. I'm introducing this as a new rule. Making it through the marathon of life, working, providing, caring, and coming out the other side and still sufing - that is an achievement. Kudos! |