posts: 298240
Data license: Public Domain
This data as json
| post_id | thread_id | thread_title | post_number | author_username | post_date | post_date_iso | post_body |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 298240 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 90 | hardyw | Nov 26, 2023 | 2023-11-26T10:30:44-0500 | xjaywalker said: Agreed. At the age of 70 and having surfed for over 50 years, I am happy just paddling g out. And stoked for when younger kids and young ladies enjoy the waves around me. And I woot and cheer them on when they catch a good wave and have a big smile. And my definition of "ripping" has changed. You described it above. It's a plus for me to still paddle into a 2-4 ft wave at DOHO or Sano, and make a few turns and glide down the line. And that's puts a smile on my face. And grateful I have been given the opportunity to enjoy this lifestyle for all these years... Click to expand... This is the Skip Frye approach. I saw an interview where he said the best surfer is the guy having the most fun. Have thought about that many times since and try and keep it top of mind when paddling out. Also if you watch Skip surf (most recent clip I've seen is a few years old, not sure if he is still paddling out) his style is very simple. Lots of flow and it just looks like he's having fun |