posts: 289063
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| post_id | thread_id | thread_title | post_number | author_username | post_date | post_date_iso | post_body |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 289063 | 16537 | Learning to accept that you don't rip | 17 | Warchild | Aug 8, 2023 | 2023-08-08T02:27:31-0400 | Chilly Willy said: Ha! Welcome to the forum, Warchild. All very valid points, both amusing and humbling to read. I think for mere mortals, whether or not you rip is not a constant but an everchanging status. This was confirmed to me yesterday when I got a text from a buddy about his own surfing that made me laugh: "I kinda stink now". Even still, there's probably also someone watching on the beach who sees him surf and thinks he rips. For me, all that other stuff -- boards, fins, equipment changes, videos (I'm one of those guys that enjoys getting footage of myself and watching it back later) -- is really just part of the fun. Nerding out on that stuff lets me extend my enjoyment of surfing beyond the bea Click to expand... I think nerding out is pretty cool when it comes to surfing, especially heavy nerding about its history and where fins, templates and everything else we are using today have come from. Surf nerds, so hot right now. |