posts: 336169
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| post_id | thread_id | thread_title | post_number | author_username | post_date | post_date_iso | post_body |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 336169 | 20655 | The Death of Surfing | 111 | shadydave | Jan 24, 2025 | 2025-01-24T08:11:07-0500 | s-10 said: We will hit an inflection where there will be more diapers on old people than kids. Surfing is deadly and everyone needs to remember that. I can't count on 2 hands the people I had to tell last year they should consider not paddling out or going back to the shore. One dude with a wetsuit on backwards on a big day , another with a wetsuit zipper unzipped because his suit was broken (can fill-up with water and hold you down), others in various states of confusion, at least a few trying to paddle out on the "magic carpet ride" with a wrong swell angle and getting stuck between a jetty and an impact zone, watching someone get taken away in an ambulance after taking off to close to rocks, way above his pay grade. I'm not a great surfer, but I've been in and around the oceans and running bodies of water my whole life. Growing up i spent years in the reefs of the Phillipines, surfed , fished and swam all over the world and I am to this day deathly afraid of the ocean. Anything slightly out of place and I'm not paddling out or I'm watching for it. This is what I feel is the main difference between me and an adult learner.... the fear and respect. Click to expand... Unfortunately common sense is a lost art. There is so much I could say in regard to this thread but it's pretty pointless. Life is all about choices and as an outside observer it seems as thou if you live on the southern coast of California everything is crowded. |