posts: 336166
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| post_id | thread_id | thread_title | post_number | author_username | post_date | post_date_iso | post_body |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 336166 | 20655 | The Death of Surfing | 109 | s-10 | Jan 24, 2025 | 2025-01-24T05:53:39-0500 | We will hit an inflection where there will be more diapers on old people than kids. Surfing is deadly and everyone needs to remember that. I can't count on 2 hands the people I had to tell last year they should consider not paddling out or going back to the shore. One dude with a wetsuit on backwards on a big day , another with a wetsuit zipper unzipped because his suit was broken (can fill-up with water and hold you down), others in various states of confusion, at least a few trying to paddle out on the "magic carpet ride" with a wrong swell angle and getting stuck between a jetty and an impact zone, watching someone get taken away in an ambulance after taking off to close to rocks, way above his pay grade. I'm not a great surfer, but I've been in and around the oceans and running bodies of water my whole life. Growing up i spent years in the reefs of the Phillipines, surfed , fished and swam all over the world and I am to this day deathly afraid of the ocean. Anything slightly out of place and I'm not paddling out or I'm watching for it. This is what I feel is the main difference between me and an adult learner.... the fear and respect. |