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27207 334 Surf Art 34 FirstPointEric Jul 17, 2010 2010-07-17T12:29:55-0400 pointsurfer wrote: "Poles" at Campus Point, Santa Barbara, CA Painted by Robert Heeley http://www.robertheeleyfineart.com/ Click to expand... Wow. That painting brings back amazing memories. Poles was my main surf break my freshman year at UCSB. It was a three minute walk from my dorm room door. Called "Poles" because the Marine Biology Department had lodged a series of poles to collect and tag different species, it was a separate break on the inside of the actual "Campus Point" break. It's a reasonably consistent cobblestone break and every blue moon, there would be a big enough NW with serious wrap energy that it would make the waves at Poles absolutely reel down this long, sandy right hand point into Goleta Beach. If the swell was angled right, you could get rides of 200+ yards. A short left would sometimes work and one of my first pure in-and-out tubes was there....fall of '83. Another surfer was paddling back out as I came out of this head-high barrel and hooted me. Stoked! I also have vivid memories of another day in the early spring of '84, riding my Local Motion 7'6" Pat Rawson shaped custom mini-tanker and just flying on a right down the point. This wave was so perfect, glassy, a foot or so overhead, but here I was, a goofy foot on another right hand California point break (I know, I know.....I'll f*ck off now ). It took all the courage I had to think I could switch my stance....but I had to try. And I did. And I made it....my first right where I was actually facing the wave. I did some pretty tame rollercoasters on my way down the beach, and a couple hundred yards later, I was just amped out of my gourd. Both that I went for it and that it actually worked out. If I had fallen, I may have never tried switching stance again. But I did and I do it to this day, re-inspired many years ago by CJ Nelson. I must have been skipping unconsciously back up the beach. Whoo hoo! Thanks for jogging the thought! Eric Below, a collage, by yours truly. Attached files Image processing. Refresh page to view
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